ISLE
OF DOGS: Route D (Northeast)
A
LONDON TUBE RAMBLES WALK (about 1 mile)
This is one of a set of walks in the Isle of Dogs. It's a circular route, from South Quay DLR, taking in the area round the tidal lock at West India Import Dock, plus Poplar Marina. Much of the trail takes you away from the modern business area and includes a narrow cobbled street that saw some amorous adventures and a fair bit of smuggling.
This is one of a set of walks in the Isle of Dogs. It's a circular route, from South Quay DLR, taking in the area round the tidal lock at West India Import Dock, plus Poplar Marina. Much of the trail takes you away from the modern business area and includes a narrow cobbled street that saw some amorous adventures and a fair bit of smuggling.
From
South Quay station cross Marsh Wall to find two sets of steps
(opposite bridge) leading down to West India South Dock.Take the
eastern flight (or slope) and follow the path as it goes to the
right. The dock was built in the late 1860's, created from the City
Canal (1805) that cut straight right across the Isle of Dogs. The
idea was to save the awkward journey round the Island, but it was a
commercial failure, largely owing to the fact that the effect of the
tides seems to have been underestimated. Incidentally, the canal made
the peninsula a real island until in 1930 the western entrance,
unused for decades, was finally filled in following the rebuilding of
the Blackwall tidal lock, now spanned by the slightly menacing Blue
Bridge you can see to the northeast. Nowadays all kinds of vessels
tie up at South Dock for a brief stay, but the lovingly-preserved
Portwey, an old (1927) coal-fired tug and the Lord Amory (centrepiece
of the Docklands Scout Project) have
permanent moorings.
The
scene around the time of the Diamond Jubilee was amazing - I
counted around 30 narrow boats waiting in the huge (178m long, 24.4m
wide) lock and it was still only half full. The Dunkirk boats were
berthed all together - I swear I could hear them exchanging
reminiscences! At the end of the broad dockside path follow the
fenced way left past the boatyard to get to Preston’s Road. Turn
left. You are now at the Blue Bridge (1969). This is a drawbridge
that lifts to let in large. Pause to take in the size of
the lock - a bit bigger than those pretty countryside canal stops you
may know. . .To the east is the (unpretty) dome of the O2. Cross the
bridge to pass Wood Wharf where three cranes remain.
At
Lovegrove Walk eight dolphins grace the water ('Leap',
Franta Belksi, 1982) in what used to be a small repairing
dock. Continue along the road as it runs across the old Blackwall
Basin lock. Just beyond this is Bridge House (1820) built for the
Superintendent of the West India Dock Company. Go a little further to
Landon's Close. On the left, just inside the entrance, is a
small brick tower with double red doors. This is an 1857
hydraulic accumulator tower which
served the London and North Western Railway. Return to the
road. A few metres away you will discover the entrance to
Poplar Dock Marina. At first a reservoir, then a pond for
storing timber, in 1851 it became London's first railway dock. An
avenue of chestnuts leads past a great variety of boats - several
with little gardens on their roofs. At the northeast corner of the
dock there is a delightful sculpture Figurehead
for Docklands (Anna
Bissett 1997). Wander round the marina past two red cranes. It is
possible to walk past the inlet to reach Blackball Basin where more
boats are berthed, but please be aware that there is no official exit
from this residential area within easy reach, so return to Preston’s
Road the way you came.
Retrace
your steps in the direction of the Blue Bridge, but this time cross
at the traffic island nearest the bridge to get to Coldharbour. At
the corner of the narrow cobbled street is another dockmaster's
residence, Isle House (c.1820). Note the north-facing bow window - an
unusual orientation, but one which which would have given a clear
view of the entrance to the Blackwall Basin. Next door is Nelson
House, tall and plain - unlike Emma Hamilton,
mistress of Nelson who was a renowned beauty. In the late eighteenth
century he had acquired the house that bears his name and from here
he would check on the guns in the docks. It was also handy for
discreet meetings with Emma in
The Gun a
few doors down the road.
There
has been a pub on this site since the early eighteenth century, and
during much of that time plotting of one kind or another has been
going on. It still has a smugglers' tunnel and in the staircase
there's a spyhole which in in bygone times was used to keep a look
out for Revenue officials. In spite of it now being a smart gastro
pub, staff were very welcoming to me, a distinctly unsmart windswept
explorer, when I dropped in for coffee. Go to the end of Coldharbour,
past some cottages, to regain Preston's road. Walk back towards the
bridge. The modules of the Thames cable car link can be seen moving
slowly backwards and forwards to the O2. A bit creepy. You should now
trog down to the traffic island - it really isn't safe to cross
nearer the bridge. Once over Preston’s Road turn right, back
towards the lock. Follow the path as it turns left into the
passageway you used before. Make your way by the dock until you
are reach the steps that lead up to Marsh Wall and South Quay DLR
station. If you wish to carry on to Canary Wharf, take the second
(western) flight of steps (or the easy access slope further on) back
down to dock level and walk straight ahead. Go round the corner and
along the dockside. In a few minutes there is a row of restaurants
with a pleasant path lined with hanging baskets and soon you will
reach the gracefully curving South Quay Footbridge. From the centre
of this (slightly bouncy) crossing you get a good view of South Dock.
When you are over the footbridge, walk down the steps (or take lift),
then pass through two sets of glass doors, crossing a large atrium.
Turn left and cross at the lights – you are now at Canary Wharf.
